Celtic Odyssey: Treading the paths of Kings

EUSA, the organization that set us up with our internships also set up one group trip to New Grange, a megalithic structure that is older than the pyramids and Stonehenge. We took a bus out to the countryside and eventually came to New Grange, which is a hill in a field. Waaay way back when (i.e. thousands of years ago) the people who lived in this valley floated several ton rocks down from neighboring places on the nearby river and hauled them up to this hill. They placed them on top of each other, always moving slightly inward, until they created a domed structure with a capstone on the top. The top of this structure is covered in grass (because it was abandoned and completely covered by ground at one point and then a farmer uncovered it) and the outside ring is a wall made of large stones and many white river stones. While these outside stones are a reconstruction of the original, all of the stones within and those creating the entrance are the real deal. The entrance has two openings (important later) and the passageway into the mound is narrow and low (though I only had to duck once or twice). Once inside, the layout is of a cross, with a room in front and a room to each side of the central ‘room.’ Along the gateway, the passageway and on the borders marking these three rooms are designs, most of which are the three ceaseless spirals – they run into each other and so they never end/have no starting point. It is unclear as to the purpose of New Grange, though it seems to be a sacred place. The passageway inside slopes upward as it enters the inner chambers. This is really cool because for 17 minutes once a year on the 21^st of December, the sun passes through the top ‘extra’ opening, runs along the curving, upward-sloping passageway until it is focused into a beam that illuminates the inner chamber, coming to rest upon the threshold of back room. As New Grange is dark, and we know it wasn’t lit with fire because there was no smoke residue, this is an important feat. There are some traces of human remains, so they think that possibly people brought the dead there for some ceremony related to the sun then. Either way, they engineered the passageway to focus the sun right where they wanted it, which is amazing when you think about how long ago this was. Better yet, there are almost 20 of these megalithic structures throughout the Irish countryside and all of them are solar aligned, so that they catch the sun’s rays at very specific times of the year. How awesome is that?? Pretty cool. Our guide had her speech down – she could be an professional actress, she was that good – a very entertaining older lady. Unfortunately, no photos inside New Grange L

New Grange

Entrance to New Grange

The tri-swirls

Afterwards, we had a quick lunch and got to see some farm animals. Finally got to pet a sheep – they are SO soft! And dirty – they get a lot of crap stuck in their wool – I would not want to clean that out. Also, when they bleat they sound really fake. I thought someone was imitating them it was that bad, and then I realized they were really baa-ing. It was hilarious. They also had bunnies, kittens, puppies, pigs, cows and a horse there. It was really fun.

SHEEP!

horse

We saw a statue of St. Patrick - he brought Catholicism to Ireland by convincing the Kings and heads of villages, and then the rest of the people followed. Then we went to the Hill of Kings, passing through the stones where only the Kings of Ireland could go through (if their chariots could fit). From this hill, you could see most of Ireland, even though it isn't especially tall, just everything else is lower. Up there, there was a stone that supposedly would shout the name of the next King of Ireland when to confirm that he should rule. There was another megalithic mound there, but it was under reconstruction so we couldn't see that. They called it the mound of the hostages because there were some people buried there they think may have been hostages. Being on the top of the hill was one of my favorite things - it was absolutely breathtaking to see for miles, Ireland just stretching out before you. Pictures can't really capture it. Some of them tried to chase the wild sheep who were grazing up there - that was funny. There was also a wishing tree, where you could tie something to it as a gift for your wish.